How to Track a Leopard

Many will be surprised to learn that leopards are the most common cat in Africa. Despite their prevalence they are also one the most elusive.

These solitary, stealthy, and shy creatures reveal themselves best in Africa's most untouched and untamed reserves, with Botswana standing out as one of the ultimate sanctuaries.

We traveled to one of the places known as a great leopard habitat, but a bit off the well-beaten path of popular safari destinations.

About seven hours northeast of Gaborone, the Tuli Block doesn't see as many visitors as the Okavango Delta or Chobe National Park. That means travelers often get treated to a private safari experience. In our three days we only saw one other safari vehicle.

Our stay began as adventures often do – by getting lost. We missed the turnoff, blending in with the rocks until our guides, SK and Manda, rescued us – proving their tracking skills extend beyond the animal kingdom to lost travelers.

As soon as we were able to stretch our legs, we tested them on a shaky swinging bridge that led to our island camp, smack in the middle of the Limpopo river that cuts the border between South Africa and Botswana.

Getting a Good Look

We were lucky that we caught this female leopard lounging in a dry river bank. And even luckier that she decided to get up and take a walk.

Up Close Encounter

Unlike some social big cats, leopards are generally solitary animals. They establish and defend territories, marking them with scent markings, and interactions between individuals are typically limited to mating or conflicts over territory and prey. 

Examining Tracks

SK explains how to tell the difference between a leopard track and a hyena track.

We're in Their Territory

Tuli is known to have great leopard habitat. Recently a pride of 6 lions had been hanging around. Our guides said more lions could eventually push the leopards to hunt elsewhere as they compete for prey.

Female Leopard Print

SK could tell tracks were fresh based on recent weather. Fresh tracks are more prominent without too much wind or rain disturbance.

Leopards vs. Hyenas

The left is a leopard print with the three dips at the bottom of the paw. The right is a hyena, with the toe pads is a slight teardrop shape. Female hyenas have larger prints than the males.

Stretching Our Legs

Hiking safaris are common in Tuli. Kids aren’t allowed (too small and tasty) so we didn’t venture far.

Safari Lullaby

The early mornings and bumpy roads can sometimes call for a little nap.

The Mighty Baobab

This was our first time seeing a baobab tree. It felt like seeing a redwood in the states. Some people believe that if you pick a flower from a baobab tree you will be eaten by a lion. But if you drink water in which baobab seeds have been soaked, you will be safe from a crocodile attack.

Baobab Climb

We had a chance to see what these so-called “upside-down” trees look like up close. The bark is so smooth.

Snoozing with the Giraffe

Ben needed a little shut-eye.

Roadblock

This shady spot was a favorite of an elephant herd, and they weren’t budging. A young male stood his ground doing his best to intimidate our Land Cruiser, but ultimately a more courteous sibling encouraged the group to move on.

A Dramatic Entrance

The swinging bridge to our camp required a bit of coordination to cross, especially at night.

Ringing in #10!

A great place to celebrate Emory’s 10th birthday, with a special cake that made it all the way and was kept safe by the amazing Koro Island staff until the big day.

Trusty Stead

Our vehicle for the trip.

Jump Seat

Emory feeling out the life of a tracker.

Group Shot

We learned so much from SK and Manda.

A Beckoning Glow

Crossing the river back to camp, we followed the light of lanterns to show the way.

Sensory Surveillance and the Art of Tracking

SK and Manda used so many of their senses to track the animals: the sight of fresh tracks as we drove along, the sound of a warning call, the pungent smell of an animal in the vicinity. It’s like learning a new language–a bush language–one that connects every living thing to every other.

Their ears could pick up and interpret the slightest sounds. Everything, from birds to insects, has a voice when it comes to threats.

One morning, the baboons' agitated bark echoed across the river, which then set off a choir of impalas clearing their throats. The baboons and impalas working in unison. We followed the baboons' glare, down to a cove in the river bank. As our car approached, the leopard vaulted up with a roar. Cornered by us on one side and the baboons on the other, he had to abandon his baby warthog breakfast and make a break for it.

Baboons
These primates have a diverse vocal repertoire and their distress calls sound like a cross between a cough and a dog bark. We noticed baboons tend to hound predators, like the leopard we saw, barking at them from a safe distance in an effort to get them to scram.

Birds
Bird species call out sharp and penetrating warning sounds whenever they feel threatened and want to warn companions of danger. Trackers rely on these a lot because they can carry long distances.

Impalas
These antelopes like to avoid being caught by surprise, and listen intently for any cries of warning from others. When they heard the baboons, the impalas started their own warning call, like a quick and sharp cough.

On the way back to camp, the heat intensified, turning the atmosphere into a convection oven. Even the elephants sought refuge, staging a sit-in on the road. A young male put on an intimidation display, ears extended like an elephant-sized satellite dish. Eventually, a diplomatic elder nudged the matriarch, and they reluctantly relinquished the road.

As we left the leopard's realm and crossed the bridge back to reality, we couldn't escape the feeling that our guides and Tuli had gifted us both a birthday safari experience to remember and a front-row seat to nature's unpredictable performance.

Learn More About Leopards

Stealthy Hunters: Known for their exceptional stealth and agility, leopards are adept climbers and swimmers. They often ambush their prey by silently stalking and pouncing, displaying remarkable strength and precision.

Diverse Diet: Leopards are opportunistic carnivores with a broad diet, feeding on various animals such as impalas, gazelles, monkeys, and even smaller predators. Their ability to adapt their diet contributes to their wide distribution.

Solitary Lifestyle: Unlike some social big cats, leopards are generally solitary animals. They establish and defend territories, marking them with scent markings, and interactions between individuals are typically limited to mating or conflicts over territory and prey. 

Leopard Locations: Historically, leopards were distributed throughout Africa and parts of Asia. Today, their range has been restricted to sub-Saharan Africa, with isolated populations in Asia and the Middle East. While very difficult to get an accurate count, it is thought that between 4,400-6,800 leopards live in Botswana.